Evan's 2009 Nissan Maxima

2013-05-04 05:44:29 admin
Daniel Evan's 2009 Nissan Maxima

Evan’s 2009 Nissan Maxima

Daniel Evan's 2009 Nissan Maxima

Evan’s 2009 Nissan Maxima

This car originally started out as a simple daily driver, and has evolved into my ultimate project car. I didn’t want to take anything too far, just subtle touches here and there to compliment the existing look and performance of the car. It is by no means a race car and I won’t pretend that it is, but it is definitely not slow and can be hella fun to drive.

Daniel Evan's 2009 Nissan Maxima

Evan’s 2009 Nissan Maxima

Most people know the car for it’s unique customized headlights and sequential tail lights that I researched and built on my own, both the first of their kind ever seen on a 7th gen Maxima. The car recently had some finishing touches added in the form of STILLEN’s bodykit and a custom fiberglass rear 4 fin diffuser, which I feel like really add to it’s aggressive overall look. All that’s really in the plans for it now is a quality BBK, coilovers, and looking at new rims next year to change things up.

Overall I love my 7th gen, it is the perfect daily driver that has become the ultimate project car for me.

Daniel Evan's 2009 Nissan Maxima

Daniel Evan’s 2009 Nissan Maxima

Here’s a recent video I made, you can check out my channel for some other crazy ones like my headlight demo.



And below is my mod list for my 2009 Nissan Maxima Sport/Tech


- Custom ceramic-coated true cold air intake
- CXJ block off plates
- CXJ phenolic thermal intake manifold/throttle body spacers
- Racingline Y-pipe
- Borla cat-back exhaust
- Stillen underdrive/lightweight pulley
- Stillen oil cooler kit
- Uprev dyno tuneSuspension:
- Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs
- Racingline front strut tower bar
- Stillen rear sway bar
- Racingline front and rear endlinks

- Alien drilled/slotted rotors
- Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines
- Motul DOT4 brake fluid
- G2 black painted brake calipers and rotor hats

- 2009 OEM 19″ 370z Rays (staggered), Hankook Ventus V12 245/40/19 all-around
- 2009 OEM 18″ rims, OEM RS-A’s
- Ichiba v1 spacers : 10mm front (Rays/OEM 18″)
- Ichiba v2 spacers : 20mm rear (OEM 18″ only)

- GT-R start button
- GT-R paddle shifters
- Padholdr EDGE Universal Tablet Mount
- Alpine M-500 amplifier
- Alpine 1242D 12″ subwoofer
- OEM All-Season floor mats
- 2012 Maxima illuminated kick plates

- Stillen front lip, center painted black
- Stillen side skirts, with scoop painted black
- Custom LostCreations rear diffuser
- 2012 OEM sport grill painted black
- Roof wing spoiler
- 30% tint all-around except windshield
- Tinted tail lights
- Gloss black vinyl wrapped chrome window trim
- Debadged MAXIMA lettering
- Color-matched chrome on trunk
- OEM splash guards

- Custom headlights : Dual 7k Umnitza Orion v2 LED angel eyes, 6k custom Iron Man, RGB demon eyes, black/radiant silver painted housing, tinted sidemarkers, Morimoto high beam projector retrofit
- Custom sequential taillights: retrofitted with additional LEDs and custom sequencing circuit
- V-LEDs type 2 Switch-back DRL LED strips in lower fog grill area
- Full exterior V-LEDs conversion with V-LEDs switchback turn signals
- 5k 35W TheRetrofitSource HID low beams and fog lights
- Full interior 6k V-LED conversion

- Viper 5902 with lots of add-ons
- Custom painted engine bay covers
- Yellowtop battery, relocated to trunk
- Racingline grounding kit

- Coils
- Headlight update

Posted in: ArticlesMaxima Read more... 0 comments

Monceif Faiks's 2001 Maxima SE

2013-05-03 06:31:20 admin
Moncef Faik's 2001 Nissan Maxima SE

Moncef Faik’s 2001 Nissan Maxima SE


This Maxima has made significant progress over the course of the past few years. Initially working on a college student budget, the car began life with its current owner as a completely factory spec Anniversary Edition Maxima. Completely stock, with the 3.0L VQ30 engine. Initially, this car was intended to be an everyday car, but soon turned into a performance experiment. Modifications began with an Exedy OEM clutch & Fidanza lightweight flywheel, and a JWT intake.

Moncef Faik's 2001 Nissan Maxima SE

Moncef Faik’s 2001 Nissan Maxima SE

Afterwards came the v2OBX headers and Cattman exhaust. This was during the time that tuning the ECUs on these cars was a difficult task due to the lack of support. A GReddy e-Manage Ultimate was installed and has been the primary tuning tool for this Maxima. After the basic bolt ons were done, modding got very serious. Coilovers and G35 wheels followed, along with other small touches such as varying stereo equipment and HID setups, and finally the JWT S1 cams. The owner wanted to get the absolute most he could out of the 3.0L platform without swapping to a VQ35, and it was done using the S1 cams, VQ35HR valvetrain and ported heads, along with an 82mm MAF and larger 3″ Cattman exhaust, allowing this engine to make 250whp @ 7500 RPM on a Dyno Dynamics dyno.

Moncef Faik's 2001 Nissan Maxima SE

Moncef Faik’s 2001 Nissan Maxima SE

The Exedy clutch started to slip, and at that point it was decided to swap to a VQ35. The VQ35 would use the existing 3.0L heads to bump the compression to ~11.8:1, and the bottom end was bored out to 3.6L. It was also beefed up with ARP main & head studs, rod bolts and ACL Race main/rod bearings for sustained high RPM activity. A gutted VQ35 intake plenum and Pathfinder throttle body sit on top of the engine, connected to the same 82mm MAF used previously. On the cosmetics side, the wheels have been changed to a set of XXR 009s, and the factory headlight housings have been switched to retrofitted projectors. A Pioneer touchscreen head unit and Vip’dOut VIP tray resides in the dash (James Church @ was a huge help with this). The car is awaiting a proper dyno tune and some smaller pieces to finish it off. This was an ultimate R&D project and far from an off the shelf setup in its current and previous forms.

Moncef Faik's 2001 Nissan Maxima SE

Moncef Faik’s 2001 Nissan Maxima SE

- VQ35DE block, stock pistons and rods – bored 40 over.
- ACL Race main bearings & rod bearings
- ARP head studs, main studs, rod bolts
- Polished 350Z crankshaft (same as A33 model)
- Ported/worked 3.0 heads with JWT S1 cams and HR valvetrain (compression ~11.5-11.8)
- SSIM, PFTB, 82mm MAF
- e-Ultimate/AEM wideband
- v2OBX/equal downpipe
- 3″ testpipe/3″ Cattman
- STOCK 5MT, Exedy stg2 clutch , Fidanza flywheel

Check out some videos on Moncef’s YouTube page located @

Posted in: ArticlesMaximaMaximaTagged in: maximastance Read more... 0 comments

VQ35 Swap - Weimar Ben Version - 4th gen Maxima

2010-06-17 08:36:42 admin

Vq35 Swap — v. Weimar Ben
(Credit: Weimar Ben )

This guide assumes you will be using the 3.0 wiring harness with a 95-01 ECU.

Acronyms used during write-up:
4G- 1995-99 Maxima
IACV – Idle Air Control Valve
ECU- Engine Control Unit
FSM – Factory Service Manual
TB – Throttle Body
TPS – Throttle Position Sensor
FPR – Fuel Pressure Regulator
UDP – Underdrive Pulley

Tools needed:
Cherry picker (engine hoist)
Metric socket set
Torque wrench
Gasket scraper
Breaker bar (for the crank pulley only)
Air tools are a great time saver
Floor jack
Jack stands
Common sense
A buddy to help you mount the engine and lock the flywheel in place when taking off the crank pulley.
95-99 FSM

When you receive the engine, do a leak down test to verify the health of the engine. You do not want to go through the work of putting in the engine only to find out that there is a problem with it.

To use the 3.0 ECU, you must use the 3.0 inner and outer timing cases, chain, and sprockets. You can use the 3.5 cams you will need to enlarge this hole in order to use the VQ30 timing cases. You need to enlarge the corresponding hole on the left side of the timing chain case as well.

(Credit: Nismo3112)

Drill the intake cams in order to reposition the dowel hole or you may purchase an spacer piece by StephenMax for $75.

To use the 3.5 cams, you must use cam spacers.
(Credit: japmaxSE)

You will need to modify the TB to be cable driven or use the 01-02 Pathfinder TB. The cable plate from the 4G maxima bolts onto the 3.5TB butterfly rod PERFECTLY, you just need to add a small washer for it to clear. This is much easier than finding a Pathfinder TB, and cheaper. It saves $100-200 from having to buy a Pathfinder TB for the swap.
(Credit: Nismo3112)

Things to make it work:
1. The TB is flipped upside-down
2. You need to dremel a little off of that gold piece that goes with the TPS, and make a bracket for it to work. The gold piece to the left of the TPS you see in the pic, will go on the rod before the nut.
3. A stopping nub is shaved off, the other stopping nub was shaved some.

Getting the TPS to turn nicely with the throttle rod is the hard part.

Completed Fabrication of TB/TPS: When mounting in the vehicle, do not mount it on the firewall, your car will jerk like there is no tomorrow!

NOTE: This isn’t the only way to do it, be creative. (credit: Nismo3112)

If you want to use the 3.5 injectors and fuel rail (and you should), you will need to convert your fuel system to returnless or you will need to add a FPR in place of one of the 5.5gen dampers.
(Credit: Nismo3112)

All you would need to do is put a tee in the fuel line between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. One leg of the tee goes to the (unmodified) fuel rail, the other leg goes to the FPR and from there to the return line to the tank. Voila, a returnless system, as far as the fuel rail is concerned.

(Credit: Stephen Max)

The FPR needs to be around 51PSI or be adjustable for this to work properly. There is a NISMO adjustable one at CourtesyParts for $127. A generic one with a dial on it from of Ebay for $45 will work just fine.

(Credit: JClaw)
“You can keep the VQ35 oil pan and all the accessories will still bolt on. You can use the 3.0 oil pans and still retain the 3.5 oil cooler. The oil cooler bolts right on to the 3.0 oil pan. This way, you don’t have to remove any material to have the 3.0 CPS sit at the right distance from the signal plate and you don’t have to plug the coolant hole. If you use the 3.5 oil pans, you have to shave about 1/4 inch off where the CPS at trans goes, If not the sensor is too far away to read the flywheel. I would rather not remove the lower and upper 3.5 oil pans. That’s more work than just shaving 1/4 of an inch off.”

Replace all injector harness connectors with VQ30DE-K(2000-01) or VQ35 connectors.

Make a mounting plate for the 4G IACV and route the idle air hose to somewhere into the intake manifold.

Remove all of the ignition coil harness over wrap in order to be able to connect the ignition coil harness connectors to the coils. Rewrap with electrical tape once you have them rerouted. While in the motions you should replace the hoses, belts, and fuel filter just to be safe.

Completed Setups:

(Credit: Dubbya)

(Credit: Nismo3112)

What does it cost?
$700-$1200 for a used, low mileage engine. Check
$250-$400 for an upgraded clutch
$80 – RPM switch
$50 – drilling of the 3.5 intake cams
$80 – JWT cam spacers
$50-125 – FPR
$50-$100 – misc. tools and supplies you will need – couple of tubes of RTV sealant, belts, fuel filter, hoses, etc.

Is there anyone that can do it for me?

Tilleys99 has a shop:

ELEVATED BODYWORKS – $3000 installed.
1330 North St Rt 934
Annville PA 17003

Stephen Max has also done some swaps for other people. I will do swaps for people in UT.

Where can I get an engine?
A local junkyard would be best. If you can’t find something locally that is suitable try Tilleys99 sells prepped 3.5′s that are ready to drop in for either $1500 or $2000?

Can I use the 02-06 ECU?
Yes, but it’s a pain in the rear end and you basically have to rewire the car. If you choose this route, you’d better have a wrecked 02-06 that you can cannibalize parts from.

What are the pros of using a 02-06 ECU?
Better timing, E-gas, variable cam timing, 5-10whp more.

What are the cons of using a 02-06 ECU?
Wiring, higher cost, shitty fuel maps above 6000rpm, 100% throttle at 6000rpm really means only 80%. The fuel maps and E-gas problems are fixed by ECU upgrades.

What are the pros of using the 95-99 ECU?
Easy wiring, lower cost.

What are the cons of using the 95-99 ECU?
Crappy timing, fuel maps, lack of variable cam timing.

How hard could the wiring for the 02-06 ECU really be?
Here’s what JCLAW had to say about that…..

“The thing that really f*cks everything up is drive by wire. Sure, you can simply swap in the main harness and not worry about anything else, but then oh no, the drive by wire harness is part of the body/electrical harness, a bunch of taped-together wires the size of your d*ck, pick and choose, find the good one, then you have to buy the steering column from a 02 Altima or Maxima, rip both apart, and try to fit the ignition equipment from the newer car in the older column, which leads to another problem.

Oops, the airbags are on the same harness, so won’t work. Then oops, you’re trying to fit the 02 Altima drive-by-wire gas pedal and it wont fit, it should be on the floor right where the steering column base is. No problem, just try to shape/weld some complex bracket there so the gas pedal is where it should be.

Then you have to drill 2 1-1.5″ holes in your firewall, because the 02 Altima has more electrical hardware in the front than your 4th gen does, and those harnesses are essential because, remember, the drive by wire (10-12 wires I believe) is part of it, so you have to use it, that means you have to rip apart your entire interior, and hope to hell that the 02 Altima you got it from has a sunroof if you have one, if not, no more sunroof.

Then, you have to hope as hell the wires will plug into your electric door motors, and oops, they don’t, so you have to buy the 02 Altima door motors for your electrical windows to work, that’s in addition to the engine (1 grand), and another grand’s worth of ECU, 3 complete wiring harnesses and an electronic gas pedal whose signal no one can crack. So you hope like sh*t that the electrical door motors from the Altima will fit in your 4th gen, but the f*ckers won’t! So now you gotta weld complicated brackets into your doors (!!), thus adding weight to your car, just to make the f*cking window motors work!

Then you have to rewire all connectors for every single light in the car, and hope to hell the gauge cluster from the 02 Altima works in your dash… oops, it doesn’t. No problem, right? Just cut the dash apart. Then you have to fit all the electrical hardware in the engine bay, in a platform that wasn’t made for it.

Fans? Radiator? AC? Forget it. And the transmission? Nope, not the same sensor, plug is different, aw sh*t car won’t start, you need the immobilizer. Big black box.

No problem, go back to a junkyard, if you can find one that’ll sell it to you. Oops, sold. Get the immobilizer from another car, right? Sh*t, the ECU, ignition key, and immobilizer ALL MUST come from the same car, so if the immobilizer doesn’t match the ECU and ignition key of the very same car, it won’t start, ever, and since you don’t have the same exact immobilizer, means you’re quite completely f*cked now, doesn’t it?”

But, but, I’d really like to have the better timing, better fuel maps…….
Get a Technosquare or JWT ECU and have them advance the hell out of the timing. Alternatively, you could get a E-manage Ultimate and do the same thing and be able to alter the A/F ratio.

Where can I get the 4G FSM?

What comes with a junkyard engine?
Full wiring harness, coil packs, exhaust manifolds, IM, TB, water pump, all sensors. They usually do not come with any of the accessories-starter, alternator, PS pump, A/C compressor.

How much power will I get?
Stock: 200whp/220wtq
Some mods: 230-240whp; 230-240wtq

How fast will it be?
With mods, low to mid 13’s in the ¼ and 5′s 0-60. No mods, high 13’s. low 6′s for 0-60.

Is it a direct drop in?
Yes, and no. Externally the 3.5 and the 3.0 blocks are pretty much the same and everything bolts right up. The sensors, fuel rail, and fuel injectors are not the same.

Can I use my 5 speed?
Yes, it bolts right up.

Can I use the 6 speed?
Yes, it bolts right up, but it’s a lot of work. The consensus is that it’s not worth it unless your 5 speed has assumed room temperature.

The 5 speed is rod-driven and the 6 speed is cable driven. In addition, the flywheel is different. The 4th gen ECU will not be able to read the 6 speed flywheel. You need to hack a 6 speed flywheel to have the 5speed CPS ring to use it with the 4th gen ECU. You will also need to get different axles (CV joints). You will need to get the 6 speed tranny mount and bolt it to the frame. You will also need to get the 6speed shifter assembly.

Do I need to upgrade my clutch?
YES, at least a stage 1 clutch, stock 5.5gen, or Altima 3.5SE clutch. The stock 4th gen clutch will not hold the TQ the 3.5 puts out.

Can I use my autotragic?
Yes, but they’re some debate whether the 4G auto can handle the power. Some say the 95-03 4spd autos are all the same and some say the 02-03′s are beefed up. Autos in general usually take more TQ well and I think that a 4G auto should work fine, assuming it’s in good mechanical condition.

What mods are recommended for the swap?
Headers or the 4th gen exhaust manifold with a y-pipe are highly recommended. This frees up around 20-25whp. Intake is maybe 5whp. UDP is also a good mod. I recommend the Motostorm UDP. The UDP for the 3.0L is the same except the 3.5L UDP doesn’t have the timing ring.

Do the 3.0L headers (exhaust manifolds) fit on the 3.5 block?
Yes, everything matches up perfectly. If you’re not using aftermarket headers, I highly recommend that the 3.0L headers be used since they don’t have any precats in them.

3.5L stock headers with the 3.0L stock Y-pipe would be VERY restrictive. Don’t do this unless you want to have potentially less power than your 3.0L had.

Can I use other 3.5 engines other than the maxima 3.5?
You can use the 3.5 from the Maxima, Altima, Murano, Quest, and I35. You CANNOT use the G35, 350Z, Frontier, or Pathfinder engines because they are RWD.

Does the Altima SE-R and the 04-06 Maxima engines really have more power? What are the differences?
The consensus is that they have a little more power due to ECU tuning and a slightly different IM. The difference is probably 5hp or less. The 04-06 Maxima engine has an external EGR valve, so it would be easier to pass emissions in most states with an external EGR than trying to convince them that the exhaust cams do it in the 02-03.

Can I use the TB (E-gas) that comes with the engine?
If you use the 02-06 ECU, you can use the E-Gas TB. If you use the 95-01 ECU, you will need to mod it to be cable-driven or use the 01-02 Pathfinder TB.

If you want a better 5th gear for highway cruising or want a more aggressive final gear, you can do what jclaw did and swap out the final gear and 5th gear from other transmissions. I’ll have to find jclaw’s thread for that.

Can I use the 3.0 heads on the 3.5 block?
Yes, but this is not what you want to do. The 3.5 heads flow better and get better HP and TQ.

Can I use the 00VI on 3.5 heads/block.
Yes, but the ports don’t match up. Many think the 00VI flows better, but no one’s done a dyno yet. If you want to go this route, you should get pathfinder heads that have ports that line up with the 00VI IM. Putting the 00VI on the maxima 3.5 heads may lose you some power. I recommend using the 3.5 maxima heads and waiting for a decent IM from Kinetix.

You can read about the new Kinetix manifold here:

Can I use the 350z/G35 IM?
NO, it won’t have the TB in the right place and it won’t fit under the hood. In addition, the mounting holes don’t line up and the ports don’t match up. Thank you Nissan!!! The 350z IM may line up with 04/05 maxima engines, but you would still have to find a way to get it to fit under the hood and make a mount for the TB.

Will I still have cruise control?
You can keep cruise control no matter what TB you use, as long as your TB has the CC throttle cable attachment.


Posted in: EngineMaximaVQ35 SwapTagged in: maximavq35VQ35 Swapweimar ben Read more... 0 comments


Twitter outputted an error:
Bad Authentication data..


All entries, chronologically...